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DogSavvyLosAngeles

By Alexandra Anastasio, Republished from akc.org

As a working dog owner, the struggle of leaving your dog home alone for long stretches can be trying on both you and your canine. Regardless of the reason, it’s not easy to meet all of your pet’s needs without some type of assistance. “A dog that must endure long days (six or more hours) without appropriate exercise can suffer quite a bit of stress,” says Aïda Muñoz, a dog walker and pet sitter for Precious Paws Pet Sitting LLC in Royal Oak, Michigan.

Thankfully, when it comes to providing care, there are a variety of options to consider. By having professionals to turn to, owners can breathe a sigh of relief and alleviate some of the guilt felt when leaving their pup.

Because each dog’s needs are different, it’s up to you to determine which type of care they’ll benefit from the most. Will your canine companion flourish in a day care environment, or is he best suited for an in-home dog walker? A more senior dog that needs bathroom breaks or the opportunity to stretch his legs during the day would most likely respond better to the one-on-one attention a dog walker can provide, as opposed to being surrounded by younger, more active dogs in a day care setting. “It all comes down to the client and what her objective is,” says Bethany Stevens, owner of On the Move Pet Care in Rochester, New York.

Just like people, dogs have different temperaments and personalities, and what works for one might not be best for another. Some adapt to a larger and more energetic group, while others feel more secure in their own home. Choosing which path to take is no small feat, so here are some pros and cons of each to help you make an informed decision.

Dog Walking

Pros:

  • Personalized and customized to the needs of the dog — does your pup need a walk or just a bit of playtime?
  • Daily exercise, which is important for both mental and physical stimulation.
  • A good option for dogs that exhibit aggression or fear issues and are overwhelmed in a larger setting.
  • Guaranteed one-on-one attention.
  • Avoid the stress of a new environment.
  • A daily walk can be less expensive than a full day at day care.
  • Less risk of being exposed to illnesses and parasites that may be present at a day care.
  • Consistency with behavioral training; dog walkers can adhere to your rules and help reinforce training.
  • Convenient for an owner who has transportation issues.

Cons:

  • Young or high-energy dogs often need more exercise than they’ll get during a limited visit with a walker.
  • Your canine partner is still home alone for the better part of a day.
  • Owners must ensure their walkers are trustworthy. They have a key to your home and they’re responsible for your dog’s well-being while he’s in their care.
  • Lack of socialization with other dogs.

Day Care

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Pros:

  • A chance to meet and play with other dogs — a good option for those that do well in an active playgroup.
  • Provides the mental stimulation and physical activity dogs need for hours on end.
  • Establishes a routine and relieves separation anxiety and boredom.
  • Great exercise — a tired out pup will be relaxed and exhausted by the time he comes home.
  • Lots of TLC.
  • Strangers will not be in your home.

Cons:

  • Potential for bad behavior — if you’re in the midst of training, the freedom given at daycare might derail your work and/or create new issues.
  • Though most day care facilities require all shots be up-to-date, there is still a chance of exposure to different illnesses.
  • Possibility of under-qualified staff — while we hope the people taking care of our dogs are trained, we never truly know how someone will act in an emergency.
  • Transportation — the lack of flexibility in an owner’s schedule can make it difficult to comply with specific drop-off and pick-up times.

Regardless of the option you choose, do your research. When hiring an in-home pet service, Stevens suggests finding a business that is licensed, bonded, and insured. If you decide to utilize a day care facility, observe the staff and the program ahead of time. “Make sure they have a good reputation and that they offer webcams as part of their service; that way you can check in on your dog,” says Alexandra Bassett, lead dog trainer and behaviorist at Dog Savvy Los Angeles.

And remember, a tired dog is a happy dog!

 
 
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Advice from a Los Angeles Dog And Puppy Trainer

The holidays are a great time to adopt a new puppy or rescue dog because you’ll have more time to help them settle in.

Doing a little advance planning can make the transition easier and set you and your newest family member up for success. Here are some general guidelines to follow:

1. Decide on house rules before you bring your puppy or dog home.

Puppies and dogs do best in an environment where rules are clear and consistent, so make sure everyone in your household agrees on the particulars. Some things to consider are: Where will your puppy or dog stay during the day and where will they sleep? What schedule will you keep in order to properly housebreak them? Will your newest family member be allowed on the bed? On the couch? Are there any rooms of the house that are off-limits?

Being aware of some puppy training basics like how to teach a puppy not to bite and how to train a dog not to do something are also extremely important.

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2. Stock up on the right supplies.

Make sure you and your dog or pup can settle in without too many mad dashes to the store by buying some of the basics ahead of time. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • a crate or exercise pen
  • a bed
  • food and water bowls
  • food and maybe some treats for training
  • a collar and leash
  • toys, especially chew toys
  • stain- and odor-removing cleaners
  • potty pads
  • possibly some baby gates to block off sections of your house
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3. Prepare your house and have a good potty training set up in place.

This requires a little more work if you’re getting a puppy since they can be champion chewers and have a knack for getting into things they shouldn’t. But no matter what your dog’s age, you’ll want to do some organizing ahead of time.

Create a temporary, gated-off living space for your dog or pup where they’ll stay whenever you’re not with them. This is an absolute necessity for housetraining a puppy. This also keeps them out of trouble by preventing them from damaging your belongings or eating something that will make them sick.

Pick a room that’s a center of activity in your household, so your dog won’t feel isolated, and be sure it’s one with easy-to-clean floors. The kitchen is often a good choice; you can block it off with baby gates if needed. Make sure you remove anything that you don’t want chewed on or soiled.

What’s in your dog’s area will vary a bit depending on their age and how you’re house training. Puppy-proof to make sure anything that could hurt your dog–medicines, chemicals, certain plants–is out of reach.

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4. Arrange for home care.

Ideally, you will need a few days or up to a week to get your new dog or puppy settled in. Potty training a puppy will take a few weeks, so be patient. It’ll also help the two of you bond, which in itself can make training easier. But even if you can take some time off, you’ll need a backup team in place pretty quickly. Enlist the help of friends or family to stop by and check in on your dog or pup, and find a good dog walker or daycare that you can rely on when needed.

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5. Plan the trip home.

Find a helper to come along when you go to pick up your dog. Young puppies who’ve never been on a car ride before may get rattled, and even adult dogs can get nervous–and a terror-filled car ride can turn into a long-lasting phobia of car travel. Ask someone to sit next to your dog on the ride home, soothing him and keeping them from hopping into your lap while you’re driving.

If your dog is used to a crate, you can put them in the crate for the ride home. Just make sure it’s secured; sliding around the backseat will make the drive more stressful.

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6. Find a good trainer or group dog training class.

Group dog training classes and private dog training are a great way to bond with your new dog and for learning how to communicate with and train your dog. They’re especially recommended for young puppies since they give pups a chance to get comfortable being around other canines and people–-a key part of raising a safe, friendly dog. 

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Los Angeles dog trainer Alexandra Bassett is the owner of Dog Savvy, a private dog training company that specializes in positive dog and puppy training in Los Angeles. Whether you've just adopted a puppy or rescued a dog with behavior issues, we can help you with every aspect of dog training including crate and potty training or resolving difficult behaviors like dog anxietyleash reactivitycanine separation anxiety and aggression.

For more information, please call: 213-294-1519 or visit our website: www.dogsavvylosangeles.com.

 

DogSavvyLosAngeles

Canine Separation Anxiety

WHEN A DOG CAN'T BE LEFT ALONE

 Labrador Retriever waiting for parent to come home.

The psychological effects of living with a dog with separation anxiety can be devastating as a dog's guardian is forced to accommodate their anxious dog by ensuring, one way or another, that they are never left alone.

But there is hope! Our simple, yet effective Behavior Modification Training (BMT) programs can help rehabilitate your dog and restore your life back to normal, much sooner than you may think! 

SYMPTOMS OF SEPARATION ANXIETY

Photo by srugina/iStock / Getty Images

Dogs suffering from separation anxiety panic when left alone and will often engage in a variety of nuisance behaviors that can cause you both emotional distress and material harm. 

PACING, WHINING, BARKING & HOWLING

Separation anxiety in dogs can take the form of prolonged pacing, whining, barking and howling that does not subside during their guardian's absence, often causing neighbors to complain, and sometimes leads to threats of eviction unless the behavior is resolved. 

DESTRUCTIVENESS WITHIN 20 MINUTES OF DEPARTURE

 Dog with separation anxiety destroying furniture.

Destructive behaviors like gnawing on furniture or the framing around thresholds like doors and windows often accompanies this behavior, causing costly damage to your home or rental property and placing a strain on your relationship with your dog.

URINATION & DEFECATION WITHIN 20 MINUTES OF DEPARTURE

Dogs with this disorder will often lose their bladder and bowel control soon after their guardian leaves, usually within 20 minutes, due to the panic they experience when they are left alone.

How To Cure Separation Anxiety

CHANGE HOW YOUR DOG FEELS ABOUT BEING LEFT ALONE

 Goldendoodle learning to be calm.

Separation anxiety in dogs is resolved by changing their conditioned emotional response (CER) to being left alone. Using our training protocol,  a dog learns to self-soothe and settle down (instead of feeling mounting anxiety) while their human counterpart goes about their leaving routine. 

Dog Anxiety Levels: From Mild to Severe

The BMT program that is best for you and your dog depends on the level of separation anxiety your dog has reached.

The training can be broken down into three phases based on taking the charge out of a variety of environmental triggers while inducing and reinforcing calm responses from your dog.

  • PHASE ONE - Indoor triggers
  • PHASE TWO - Door Triggers
  • PHASE THREE - Leaving for longer and longer time periods

Training needs to take place on a daily basis for optimal results and can be done for anywhere to 15-30 minutes before your departures. We will help you devise an executable plan that safely allows you to get your life with your dog back to normal.

Los Angeles dog trainer Alexandra Bassett is the owner of Dog Savvy, a dog training company based in Los Angeles that specializes in solving canine separation anxiety. If you have a dog that you suspect is suffering from separation anxiety, Alexandra offers free 30-minute phone consultations and provides in-home dog training to the greater Los Angeles metro area, as well as remote dog training services via Skype. 

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The Ideal Potty Training Set Up

A DEN (A CRATE OR BED = DEN) WITHIN A CONFINEMENT AREA

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House training requires keeping a puppy in a "no mistake" zone like a crate or bed within a confinement area where a puppy can do no wrong when it is not being supervised.

Puppies do not like to make a mess where they sleep, so the best set up is to keep a crate or bed within a confinement area that has a designated "legal" potty area.

The crate or bed acts as a den where the puppy can rest or sleep, and the confinement area acts like a playpen, giving the puppy a little freedom to safely roam around and make a potty mistake without consequences. 

For easy cleanup, every part of the surface area in the confinement area should be completely covered with potty pads or paper in case the puppy does make a mistake. Confinement areas can be created with exercise pens that surround or attach to the crate. 

PERFECT FOR INDOOR & OUTDOOR POTTY TRAINING

This is the perfect setup for those wanting to indoor OR outdoor potty train their puppy. Those wanting to indoor potty train simply need to take away some of the potty pad tiles one by one as they notice where their puppy has started to go potty (perhaps after one or two weeks). Usually, the puppy will target the same area, so eventually, there can be only one pad acting as a legal indoor toilet.

Those wanting to outdoor potty train simply give the puppy a pass for going potty in their "no mistake" zone and make sure to put their puppy on a schedule that gets their puppy to the right place at the right time.

The Golden Rule of Potty Training 

ONLY LET A PUPPY ROAM FREE AFTER IT HAS POTTIED IN THE DESIGNATED POTTY AREA

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House training requires going on a schedule and supervising a puppy anytime they are roaming free in the house. And in fact, one of the real secrets to potty training is ONLY letting a puppy roam free in the house after it has gone potty in the right spot.

Why? Because when freedom to roam is associated as a reward or positive consequence for having gone to the bathroom in the correct spot, your puppy is more likely to make an effort to potty quickly where and when you want them to.

Limit The Time A Puppy Roams Free

PREVENTION IS WORTH AN OUNCE OF CURE WHEN IT COMES TO POTTY TRAINING

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It's a good idea to stick to a limited "roaming-free" schedule meaning that you will only let your puppy roam free for about 20-45 minutes before putting them back in their "no mistake" zone. This also gives a puppy parent a break to go back doing other things without worrying about what their puppy is up to.

The side benefit of this strategy is that it helps to avoid canine separation anxiety from developing. Your puppy gets used to learning how to entertain themselves by not always being with you, and as a result, they can better tolerate being left alone as they mature. 

Successful Potty Training Requires Supervision

KNOWING WHEN A PUPPY MIGHT HAVE TO GO POTTY IS HALF THE BATTLE

It's important to have an idea of when your puppy may have to go, and to get them to the right spot at the right time, to condition them to want to go in that spot. These are the times that a puppy is most likely going to need to potty: 

  • Within 5-15 minutes of waking up.
  • Within 5-30 minutes after eating a meal (usually will puppy have to pee right after eating, and pooping may happen 15-30 minutes after a meal).
  • After a nap.
  • After any period of stimulation like playtime with people or another dog or meeting a new guest that is visiting
  • If the puppy feels over-excited or anxious for any reason, it may lose its bladder control (like after hearing fireworks for the first time or when meeting a new guest)
  • Before putty puppy to bed at night, it's important to take them for a final bathroom break

NOTE: Young puppies before they have bladder control may have to potty as much as every hour, so keep this in mind! 

What To Do If Your Puppy Does Make A Potty Mistake

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INTERRUPT THEM AND TAKE THEM TO THE CORRECT POTTY SPOT

When a puppy is roaming free in the house, they must always be supervised so that they can be instantly corrected should they decide to go potty in the wrong spot. If this happens, simply pick them up, say "Oops!", and then take them directly to their potty spot to finish their poop or pee.

If they don't finish their potty, but you suspect they still have to go, return them to their no-mistake zone to ensure they don't make a mess in the wrong spot again. Then make a point to take them to their correct potty spot again within 5-10 minutes to finish their potty - this strategy also frees you up to attend to other things and not worry if your puppy makes a mess when you're not attending to them.

NOTE: Never punish a puppy for making a potty mistake. If you punish your puppy for doing something as natural as going to the bathroom, they will only learn that you are unpredictable and that it's not okay to go to the toilet in front of you.

Often, the fallout from punishment is that a puppy learns to get sneakier about when and where they decide to go potty. They also learn they can't always trust you.

If your puppy goes potty in the wrong spot on your watch, you need to examine how to refine your potty training methods and do better supervising them the next time!

Signs Your Puppy Needs The Toilet

THE TWO MAIN DEAD GIVE-AWAYS 

There are two tell-tale signs that a puppy may have to potty:

  • If a puppy dips their nose to the floor and wanders away from where the activity is happening in the house.
  • Circling in one spot. 

Puppies want to be near their family, so if you see them start to wander off--unless they are thirsty and seeking water--it's a definite sign they are looking for a potty spot. They should be taken to their toilet right away when either of these events starts to happen.

Rewards For A Job Well Done

MAKE A HABIT OF LAVISHLY REWARDING YOUR PUPPY WITH PRAISE AND TREATS WHEN THEY GO IN THE RIGHT SPOT!

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This can not be underestimated as one of the biggest factors in helping a puppy understand how great it is when they potty in the right spot.

Puppy parents should plan to offer special treats to a puppy when they go on their pee pad or when they go in the right spot outside.

Giving a puppy a couple of treats or more after they finish their potty can really make an impression on them and help them to connect the dots about where the toilet is.

The No. 1 Outdoor Potty Training Tip

KEEP A PUPPY ON A LEASH

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Lastly, the biggest secret that most people don't know about is keeping their puppy on a leash until they potty before letting them off to roam free in the yard (or even taking them for a walk). 

This requires more patience in the beginning but really pays off quickly as a puppy starts to understand that they win their freedom after they've pottied. 

Simply keep them on a leash when you take them outside until they've done their business, and then let them off for a romp (or start your walk).

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Alexandra Bassett is a professional dog trainer and the owner of Dog Savvy Los Angeles, a dog training and behavior company based in Los Angeles. She has been training dogs professionally for over 3 years and specializes in solving problem dog behavior. She lives in Los Angeles and is available for free consultations.

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dog body languageMobbing, Bullying, Mounting & Lack Of Cleanup Are Main Causes

A recent study released by Sonoma State University highlights two major causes of conflict between dogs at dog parks, and two major causes of conflict between people taking their dog to the dog park.

Behaviors that resulted in the highest amount of dog fights between dogs were bullying and mobbing, and behaviors that resulted in the highest amount of conflicts between people taking their dog to the dog park were differences in opinion on how to respond to dogs mounting each other and neglecting to cleanup after one's dog.

Aggression was most likely to break out as a result of mobbing behaviors--dogs congregating at the entryway of the park in order to meet incoming dogs--and bullying that went unnoticed until too late, the study says.

Controversy over "unwanted advances" in the form of dogs mounting other dogs and dog caregivers refusing to cleanup their dog's feces ranked highest for why conflicts break out between people.

Lack Of Consensus On Code Of Conduct Is The Underlying Issue

Lack of consensus between dog caregivers about what is appropriate behavior for dogs to engage in was cited as one of the main reasons these problems occur. Dog parks have gained in popularity over the past 15 years and are a relatively new phenomenon. As a result, the rules of conduct are somewhat arbitrary depending who is at the dog park at any given time, the study says. 

Dog Park Etiquette: The Do's & Don'ts

Anyone who has visited a dog park with their own dog may have witnessed or experienced some of these behaviors first-hand, but may not have known there are ways to prevent them from happening. The following are some general guidelines to follow to ensure both you and your dog continue to have a positive experience at the dog park:

Do's:

  • Keep an eye on your dog. It's important to moderate your dog's interactions to ensure play remains safe and that dogs are mutually interested in each other.
  • Keep small dogs in the small dog area if they get overwhelmed by bigger dogs. Some small dogs like French Bulldogs often prefer to play with bigger dogs, so this up to owner discretion.
  • Keep moving. If you keep moving around in the dog park, it will prompt your dog to periodically check your position and follow you, and a dog that is keeping on an eye on their human is more likely to stay out of trouble, too. Remaining stationary ups the chances of your dog getting too involved with pack dynamics and could lead to your dog getting involved in a dogfight should one break out.
  • Know how to break up a dogfight if one should occur. The best way is to remain calm (ask screamers to be quiet), grab the fighting dogs by the hindquarters, and then lift their back legs off the ground. Once the legs are lifted, pull the dogs apart, stepping backward in a curve so that if a dog tries to redirect their fury back at the handler, they won't be able to reach them.
  • Bring poop bags and pick up after your dog.
  • Bring a portable water bowl for your dog - water bowls at dog parks carry the risk of communicable illnesses such as giardia.

Don'ts:

  • Mobbing: Don't let your dog crowd new dogs entering the dog park. It's best to keep your dog away from the entrance of the dog park once you arrive to prevent them from causing newcomers to feel crowded or overwhelmed.
  • Mounting: Don't let your dog mount other dogs. Intervene quickly and body-block your dog by stepping in between your dog and the object of its affection to let your dog know they should stop. Repeat as many times as necessary until your dog gets the message (maybe even taking your dog outside the park to calm down, and then coming back in to give them another chance to do something else). The other dog owner will appreciate this greatly!
  • Adopt the stance that dogs can work things out themselves: If play between dogs seems too rough or one-sided, intervene as soon as possible. It's a good idea to be aware of dog body language and what it is expressing, and to have an understanding of how different breeds of dogs like to play, in order to ensure all play is mutually enjoyed.
  • Don't bring your dog to the dog park if they are sick.
  • Don't bring your puppy if they are less than 4 months of age or if they haven't had all of their rounds of shots.
  • Don't bring an unneutered male to the dog park - it may result in fights! Don't bring a female in heat as it will definitely cause a stir and may result in fights (and a lot of unwanted mounting)!
  • Don't bring food or treats to the dog park. Dogs may end up following a person with food on their person around like the pied piper and it could cause fights as dogs vie to get a treat.
  • Toys like balls should only be surfaced at your discretion. If toys result in dogs fighting over who gets to play with the toy, it's best not to bring them to the dog park (or only break out a toy when no other dogs are around).
Play Styles: Different Breeds Play In Different Ways
 
Play can take on different forms depending on the breed and temperament of a dog. Active breed or high energy dogs like to play a variety of games that simulate hunting or herding behaviors. This can include "take down" maneuvers like grabbing another dog by the scruff of the neck, bumping into each other with body slams to knock each other off-balance, and nipping at the feet or hindquarters of another dog.
 
To a certain extent this is normal and natural, but if play gets too rough or one-sided, it's best to intervene and calm the dogs down. One-sided behaviors to look out for are:

    • A dog pinning another dog down so that it can't get up.
    • A dog chasing and nipping at another dog that does not want to play or be chased (usually that dog will be fleeing from the other dog and perhaps try to hide behind its dog parent or under a park picnic table).
    • A bigger dog overwhelming a smaller dog or puppy that can't match their play style or energy level.
    • Competitive behaviors like one dog resting their head on the neck and shoulder area of another dog. This is an "I'm sizing you up" maneuver whereby one dog is judging whether they could take the other on. This should be stopped immediately and the dogs should be separated.
    • "Three's A Crowd" behaviors like sideline barking. Sometimes, a dog will get really excited when two other dogs are playing and bark like crazy at them like they want in on the action. Unless all three dogs are taking turns playing with each other, it's best to discourage this behavior as it can lead to over-arousal and dog fights breaking out.

Conflicts At The Dog Park Are Mostly Avoidable

Most conflicts at the dog park can be avoided with human supervision, intervention, and consideration of others. The best way to keep your dog out of trouble and to keep the peace with dog caregivers at the dog park is to keep moving and to intervene when: 1) play gets too rough or seems one-sided, 2) your dog engages in mobbing newcomers, or 3) your dog starts mounting another dog. Lastly, it's always a good idea to cleanup after your furry friend, as well!

Alexandra Bassett is a professional dog trainer and the owner of Dog Savvy Los Angeles, a dog training and behavior company based in Los Angeles. She has trained dogs professionally in the Greater Los Angeles for over three years and specializes in solving problem dog behavior like canine separation anxiety, leash reactivity, and aggression. She lives in Los Angeles and is available for free consultations.

RESOURCES:

Sonoma State University, Patrick Jackson, Situated Activities in a Dog Park: Identity and Conflict in Human-Animal Space. Retrieved from: https://www.animalsandsociety.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/jackson.pdf

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Dogs were built to roam and, more than anything, love running around free. Dog parks, therefore, can be a great way to grant your lovable furball some much-desired freedom where they can blow off some steam.

It's a important to stick to some basic rules, however, to make sure that going to a dog park remains a positive experience for both you and your dog. Here are some tips to keep both you and Fido safe and happy: 

1) It's a good idea to train your dog in the following behaviors before taking them to a dog park:

  • Recall (coming when called): This is easily done by creating positive associations with your dog's name, and then training them to come to you when called. Simply stay stationary and say your dog's name, and when they look at you, give them a treat. Proceed to moving away from your dog and calling their name. When they catch up, reward! Do this multiple times throughout the day, sometimes catching your dog off guard by calling from another room, and rewarding them lavishly when they come to you.
  • The Collar Grab: Sometimes a dog will come when called, but as they notice you are about to put them on a leash, they run away. This is easily counter-conditioned by adding a collar grab as one of the steps in recall training. Simply grab a dog's collar as you give them a reward so they get used to having their collar grabbed when they come to you.

2) Rules for safe engagement at a dog park:

DONT'S
  • Don't bring your dog to the dog park if they are sick.

  • Don't bring your puppy if they are less than 4 months of age or if they haven't had all of their rounds of shots.

  • Don't bring an unneutered male to the dog park - it may result in fights! Don't bring a female in heat as it will definitely cause a stir and may result in fights (and a lot of unwanted mounting).

  • Don't bring food or treats to the dog park. Dogs may end up following a person with food on their person around like the pied piper and it could cause fights as dogs vie to get a treat.
  • Toys like balls should only be surfaced at your discretion. If toys result in dogs fighting over who gets to play with the toy, it's best not to bring them to the dog park, or only break out a toy when no other dogs are around.
  • Don't let your dog mount other dogs. Intervene quickly and body-block your dog by stepping in between your dog and the object of its affection to let your dog know they should stop. Repeat as many times as necessary until your dog gets the message (maybe even taking your dog outside the park to calm down, and then coming back in to give them another chance to do something else). The other dog owner will appreciate this greatly!
  • Don't let play with other dogs get too rough or one-sided. Play can take on different forms depending on the breed and temperament of a dog. Active breed or high energy dogs like to play a variety of games that simulate hunting or herding behaviors. This can include "take down" maneuvers like grabbing another dog by the scruff of the neck, bumping into each other with body slams to knock each other off balance, and nipping at the feet or hindquarters of another dog. To a certain extent this is normal and natural, but if play gets too rough or one-sided, it's best to intervene and calm the dogs down. One-sided behaviors to look out for are: 

    • A dog pinning another dog down so that it can't get up.

    • A dog chasing and nipping at another dog that does not want to play or be chased (usually that dog will be fleeing from the other dog and perhaps try to hide behind its owner or under a park picnic table).

    • A bigger down overwhelming a smaller dog or puppy that can't match their play style or energy level.

DO's
  • Keep an eye on your dog. It's important to moderate your dog's interactions to ensure play remains safe and that dogs are mutually interested in each other.

  • Bring poop bags and pick up after your dog. 

  • Bring a portable water bowl for your dog - water bowls at dog parks carry the risk of communicable illnesses such as giardia.

  • Keep small dogs in the small dog area if they get overwhelmed by bigger dogs. Some small dogs like French Bulldogs often prefer to play with bigger dogs, so this up to owner discretion.

  • Keep moving. If you keep moving around in the dog park, it ups the chances that your dog will keep on an eye on you, too, and stay out of trouble. Remaining stationary ups the chances of your dog getting too involved with pack dynamics and could lead to your dog getting involved in a dogfight should one break out.

  • Know how to break up a dogfight if one should occur. The best way is to remain calm (tell screamers to be quiet), grab the fighting dogs by the hindquarters, and then lift their back legs off the ground. Once the legs are lifted, pull the dogs apart, stepping backward in a curve so that if a dog tries to redirect their fury back at the handler, they won't be able to reach them.

3) If your dog only sticks by you and prefers not to socialize, the dog park may not be for you:

Sometimes, dogs prefer the company of humans or would enjoy going for a long walk or a hike rather than going to the dog park. If you notice your dog does not interact much with the other dogs at the park, preferring instead to remain near you, there's a good chance they are not enjoying the dog park as much as you would like. If this sounds like your dog, honor what their behavior is telling you and think about taking them somewhere else for some special outdoor time. 

Alexandra Bassett is a professional dog trainer and the owner of Dog Savvy Los Angeles, a dog training and behavior company based in Los Angeles. She has volunteered to train shelter dogs for over a decade and specializes in solving problem dog behavior. She lives in Los Angeles and is available for free consultations. For more information, please visit her website: www.dogsavvylosangeles.com

 

 

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man chasing dog

When “Come” Turns Into “Chase Me”

Have you ever had your dog off-leash at the dog park and called them to “come” (also known as recall), only to be ignored, and then proceeded to call them again, sometimes repeatedly, before they seemed to finally listen? Or even more frustrating, and to your own embarrassment, have you had to chase them down in front of a legion of bemused dog owners in order to grab them and get them back on the leash (maybe even losing your cool in the process)?

If, on top of this, you also reprimanded or punished your dog when they finally responded to your call (or when you finally caught up with them), you not only taught them NOT to come to you the first time you asked, but that you will also either give chase (a game that many dogs enjoy, and which may also prompt them to run away from you) to force them to comply, or worse, that you will punish them for doing what you ask (albeit not the first time you asked, but you’ll soon discover that human error is to blame for that).

Word Association – How To Turn Recall Into A Pleasant Experience For Your Dog

We’ve all had the experience of being asked to do something we don’t want to do, at a moment we don’t want to do it. Your dog is really no different from you in this respect. However, teaching your dog to come when called is important, not only because it makes life easier (and makes you look like the best dog trainer ever at the dog park), but because it can keep your dog out of trouble, possibly even saving their life.

First and foremost, make sure your dog associates recall with positive experiences. Dogs, like human beings, avoid things they don’t like. If you only call your dog to come when it’s time to leave the dog park, or worse, get upset and punish them for taking their time to respond to you, you are setting them up for making a negative association with the word and ignoring your command.

To turn this around, you need a  new strategy. Start by reinforcing the act of coming when called by making sure the end result is something your dog will enjoy: praise, a treat, or being allowed to return to whatever they were doing. Yes! Calling your dog to come, and then sending them off again to resume whatever activity they were enjoying before, will help condition them to want to respond to you when called.

Dog Training Tip: Ask a friend to play monkey in the middle with you and your dog. Take turns calling your dog back and forth, making sure you both sound happy and excited as you do so. Lavishly praise your dog every time they come to each of you when called.

Dog Training No-No: Chasing Down Your Dog

Never, ever chase after your dog or punish them for not coming when called – it will only perpetuate the problem! Often, you are interrupting your dog in the middle of something it prefers to do more than come to you (like sniffing something interesting or playing with another dog), so take this into account. If your dog ignores you when you call them, don’t get upset. Take a deep breath, wait for them to respond (even it seems like they are taking forever), and praise or treat them when they finally come to you. If you make a commitment to practicing recall more often in a controlled environment, without distractions (the dog park is not a good setting in which to help your dog learn new behaviors), you will notice that they respond better and more quickly when you take them somewhere public to socialize.

Dog Training Tip: Practice recall in a place with minimal distractions in 2-5 minute intervals, using freedom as a reward. Simply call your dog to come, praise them when they do so, and then send them off to resume whatever activity they were doing before. This will go a long way to show your dog that listening to you doesn’t necessarily mean their off-leash freedom is immediately going to end. And if your dog does not respond to your first request, DON’T REPEAT YOURSELF. Give your dog a chance to come to you and praise them when they do. If they don’t, try walking or jogging in the opposite direction of your dog. Very often, just walking briskly away from your dog will stimulate them to follow you, and when they catch-up, you have the perfect opportunity to praise them and send them off again.

Realistic Expectations – Dogs, Like People, Make Mistakes

No matter how much effort you put into training, no dog is ever going to be 100% reliable at coming when called. Dogs are not machines. They’re like people: they have their good days and their bad days. Sometimes they don’t hear you call, sometimes they’re paying attention to something else, sometimes they misunderstand what you want, and sometimes they simply decide that they would rather do something else. And, let’s face it, sometimes our training is inconsistent or confusing. So be patient with your dog, remaining consistent, fair, and discerning in your expectations, and it will pay off.

Alexandra Bassett is a professional dog trainer and the owner of Dog Savvy Los Angeles, a dog training and behavior company based in Los Angeles. She has volunteered to train shelter dogs for over a decade and specializes in solving problem dog behavior. She lives in Los Angeles and is available for free consultations. For more information, please visit her website: www.dogsavvylosangeles.com

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Rhodesian Ridgeback with a front-clip harness

Does your dog take you for a walk instead of the opposite? Perhaps pulling so hard that their breathing is impeded in the process? Do you dread going for a walk, as a result, not only because you don’t want to be pulled all over the place, but because it seems to be causing undue strain for your dog, as well?

The good news is: you don’t have to live with this behavior until the end of days. With a little effort and know-how, you can train your dog to walk on a loose leash. Part of understanding how to curb this unpleasant behavior is examining why your dog pulls in the first place.

Doggie Logic: I Pull Because It Gets Me Where I Want To Go 

Firstly, a dog is a quadruped designed for continual movement. Their natural pace is faster than ours, so they quickly find themselves at the end of a taut leash. They want to move forward towards more interesting smells, other dogs, or just for the natural urge to move, and being on a leash, no matter how normal it seems to us, is not normal for them. It’s something they learn to do as part of the life of a domestic animal.

Secondly, dogs pull on the leash because it works: they want to go forward (often towards some specific thing), so they pull forward and affected by the momentum created, we relent by going forward with them. It doesn't take a dog long to figure out that pulling gets it to where it wants to go.

The Oppositional Reflex: Pulling Back Only Creates More Pulling

To make the situation even more challenging, dogs have a natural oppositional reflex that is linked to their fight or flight response. This means that resistance on your end activates a “struggle” mindset on your dog’s end, resulting in a dog that will only try to pull even harder when you pull back, forcing you to give in. Uh-oh! Your dog just trained you!

Teach Your Dog That Pulling Won’t Work

So what do we do? The main secret to stopping a dog from pulling is to not allow pulling to get them where they want to go, and to teach them that they can go where they want (within reason!) when they don't pull. The other part of training involves teaching your dog that when they are on a leash, they must pay at least some attention to where the person at the other end of the leash is positioned and going.

Dog Training Tip #1: Start rewarding your dog for eye contact at home by practicing walking on or off leash in the house, where your dog probably doesn't pull. Each time he looks at you, mark the moment with an upbeat “Yes!” and give your dog a treat. Whenever you go for a walk, do the same. This helps bring your dog’s focus back to you, plus it’s hard to pull if they’re looking at you!

Dog Training Tip #2: Teach your dog that pulling results in the stopping of forward motion. If your dog starts to walk in front of you on leash, stop dead in your tracks. When the leash becomes taut, wait for your dog to look back at you, and then mark the moment with an upbeat “Yes!” and encourage your dog to walk back towards you by walking in the opposite direction you were going. The quicker you do this, in the beginning, and the more fun you make it, the faster your dog will pick up the object of this game, which is to stay by your side in order to keep moving forward.  If your dog walks in front of you again, do the same thing again. Do this as many times as you need to in the beginning to get the message across.

Dog Training Tip #3: Set your dog up for success by avoiding distractions they are not ready for. If you take your dog out to train, but they are pulling every which way, they are not going to learn, and you will just become frustrated. Back up a step or two and work at home, inside, with only a few distractions. Then work in the yard. Next, work in front of the house. Ensure that your dog has a positive experience and always remain calm.

Work On Your Relationship With Your Dog

Pulling on the leash can be a sign that your relationship with your dog could use a little tweaking. Do you demand attention from your dog without being aware of what kind of attention they enjoy? Every dog has preferences depending on their breed and disposition. Perhaps your dog is a Beagle and lives for following the scent of a trail, but you don't let them sniff much on walks. This will make a Beagle very unhappy.

One way to improve your relationship is to consistently ask your dog to say “Please” to get what they want. On a walk, for example, you can ask them to sit and look at you before being allowed to take a long time sniffing something. Like any relationship, there is always a little give and take involved, so learn what your dog enjoys to do and allow them to do it as a reward for good behavior.

Alexandra Bassett is a professional dog trainer and the owner of Dog Savvy Los Angeles, a dog training and behavior company based in Los Angeles. She has volunteered to train shelter dogs for over a decade and specializes in solving problem dog behavior. She lives in Los Angeles and is available for free consultations. For more information, call 213-294-1519 or email us: info@dogsavvyla.com.